Empty Tabernacle Tour of Lower Manhattan

There are many different devotions for the Triduum that take you on a mini-pilgrimage. Some people walk the Stations of the Cross through neighborhood streets. Others spend Holy Thursday night driving around to visit the Eucharist at seven different churches before midnight.

The Southern Baron has introduced me to the New Orleans Good Friday Nine Church Walk custom. If you start early and have a plan you can visit nine empty tabernacles before the 3pm liturgy. Luckily the NYC skyline is crammed with church steeples, so we have plenty of nearby opportunities to make it happen.

This Holy Week we're planning a route through the Upper East Side. Last year we started near Battery Park and worked our way up to Midtown West, traveling from the early days of the American Church to the site of some recent archdiocesan controversy. Besides being an interesting walking tour (who knew there were zero churches in TriBeCa?), it was a beautiful experience of the universality of the Church. Witnessing the once-a-year bare emptiness of parishes is always a favorite of mine too.

You can see the entire itinerary after the jump! No selfie sticks were used or harmed in the making of this field trip.


 Stop 1: Our Lady of the Rosary/Shrine of St. Elizabeth Ann Seton 
Built 1965. Style: Georgian/Colonial Revival. Neighborhood: Battery Park 

It's fitting that we began in the oldest part of New York and a shrine to the first American-born saint. The little brick church and adjoining historic house contrast with the skyscraper canyons around them. I like how its style reflects the era in which Mother Seton was born. The understated Georgian interior is well chosen.

If you take the 1 train to South Ferry, note that the last few cars don't line up with the platform, and that your car will be filled with middle school trips and European tourists bound for the Statue of Liberty.

Stop 2: Our Lady of Victory 
Built 1946. Style: Georgian Revival. Neighborhood: Financial District 

This small but stately church was dedicated as a War Memorial church toward the end of World War II. Since it's a stone's throw from Wall Street, the parish offers several early morning weekday masses for people working in the area. Its stained glass windows are some of favorites.

Protestant Pit Stops:
Trinity Wall Street 
Built 1846. Style: Gothic Revival.
Neighborhood: Financial District 

It's not Roman Catholic, but too big a landmark to pass up. There has been a series of Episcopal churches at this spot since the 1690s. Countless famous New Yorkers have been connected with the parish, from Alexander Hamilton's grave in the churchyard to the Astors who funded the reredos and bronze doors.
The current Gothic building was designed by legendary architect Richard Upjohn, and for a while the steeple made it the tallest building in the city.
 I've spent a good bit of time here doing vestment research in their extensive archives. Nicholas Cage has also been here, hunting National Treasure. Spoiler alert: there's not actually gold in the basement.


St. Paul's Chapel
Built 1766 Style: Georgian. Neighborhood: Financial District

This is the oldest surviving church building in continuous use in NYC. George Washington has been here, natch. Part of the Trinity parish, it was originally a "chapel of ease" for people in the "country" who didn't feel like schlepping to the main church at Wall Street. The fact that these buildings are less than a mile apart tells you how tiny the original settled area of Manhattan was.

St. Paul's faces the World Trade Center but was miraculously unharmed on 9/11. It served as shelter for rescue workers in the aftermath and today features exhibits about recovery from the 2001 terrorist attacks.


Stop 3: St. Peter 
Built 1840 Style: Greek Revival. Neighborhood: Financial District

Slightly younger than Trinity, this is the second building for the oldest Catholic parish in NYC. The Mexican crucifixion painting painting also hung in the earlier church, where St. Elizabeth Seton became Catholic in 1805. Pierre Toussaint also went to Mass there.

The depiction of Christ in the tomb beneath the tabernacle is a nice touch. 

The building sustained roof damage in the 9/11 attacks, and like St. Paul's was a staging area for recovery work. Fire deparment chaplain Fr. Mychal Judge's body was laid here after he was killed by falling debris.

Stop 4: Church of the Most Precious Blood/Shrine of St. Gennaro
Founded 1891. Style: Romanesque. Neighborhood: Little Italy

Moving to the Lower East Side, we landed at the parish that hosts the biggest Italian street festival in the city. It's mostly surrounded by Chinatown today, and the pasta restaurants nearby are pretty touristy, but the parish is still an Italian-American landmark.

There was a lot going on inside - multiple saint altars, a Lourdes shrine with running fountain, and Christmas garland lingering over the Mary altar. When we arrived, several older men were loudly arguing over placement of a life-size crucified Christ statue. My Italian heritage kicked in and I felt like I should be waving my arms more.

Stop 5: Basilica of Old St. Patrick's Cathedral 
Built 1815. Style: Gothic Revival. Neighborhood: NoLIta (North of Little Italy)

Until the "new" St. Patrick's replaced it in 1879, this church was the center of New York Catholicism for much of the nineteenth century. When it was built, Catholics were still a beleaguered minority; the heavy stone walls around the perimeter were placed to keep vandals away and the front entrance intentionally features no breakable stained glass. Today it stands as a monument to Archbishop "Dagger John" Hughes and other pioneers who helped make NYC into a spiritual home for American Catholics.

On our way out the door we ran into one of the young associate priests, who chatted us up about the building's history. Pope Benedict XVI made Old St. Patrick's a Basilica in 2010, and the building is currently undergoing a major renovation for its 200th anniversary. The elaborate carving in the sanctuary won't be visible again until the fall.

Stop 6: St. Anthony of Padua Shrine
Built 1888. Style: Romanesque Revival. Neighborhood: SoHo (South of Houston Street)

Staffed by Franciscans, this is the oldest Italian parish in New York state and the first church structure built by Italian immigrants in the United States. It has appeared in several movies, including Moonstruck and The Godfather II. Like our next stop, Our Lady of Pompeii, this parish cites Mother Cabrini, the first (naturalized) American saint, among the people who ministered there.

Stop 7: Our Lady of Pompeii
Built 1926. Style: Renaissance Revival. Neighborhood: Greenwich Village

Since 1892 this parish has ministered to NYC immigrants: first the Italian community and now an increasingly diverse population. Sunday mass is offered in several different languages. The interior features beautiful fresco paintings (but no volcano depictions.)

We stopped for a snack in nearby Father Demo Square, which is named for a parish priest who comforted victims of the nearby Triangle Shirtwaist Factory fire in 1911.

Stop 8: St. Joseph
Built 1834. Style: Greek Revival. Neighborhood: Greenwich Village

Only the sixth parish established in New York City, this building has a long history. Currently it is the main campus ministry location for NYU students. The Transfiguration fresco above the altar was uncovered during a 1970s interior restoration. Also notable are the Stations of the Cross medallions, which might be reverse-painted glass. Unfortunately, the sanctuary is rather spare other than the fresco; the nave is much more interesting.

Stop 9: St. Francis Xavier
Built 1878. Style: Neo-Baroque/Beaux Arts. Neighborhood: Chelsea. 

Recently renovated and rededicated in 2010, this building designed by Irish church architect Patrick Keely is truly magnificent. Painted murals, saintly statues, and intricate geometric decorations cover every inch with potential spiritual inspiration. Even the restrooms are accessible and well-planned, a rarity when you're a weary church visitor.
The parish was founded by Fr. John Larkin, a Jesuit missionary from England. When the Jesuits take on a project, boy do they get it done.

Bonus: Holy Innocents 
Built 1870. Style: Gothic Revival. Neighborhood: Midtown West.

I've written before about this Latin mass gem in the heart of Midtown's insanity. Fortunately, the Archdiocese has decided not to close the parish, so it will remain open for more reverent Holy Weeks with lots of image draping. Last year we wrapped up our walk here with the Passion liturgy, and the Brumidi crucifixion was a perfect Good Friday reflection.

Stay tuned for the results of this year's pilgrimage!